Q: What process is best for cleaning my carpet?

A: STEAM CLEANING ! "Dry" or "carbonated" bonnet buffing cleaning is not as effective, nor does it leave less residue, as many carpet cleaning companies claim. In the past, steam cleaners used soaps which could leave a residue and quicken the re-soiling process. Most of todays products are detergents which crystalize and can be vacuumed when dry. Using these detergents along with rinsing agents to break down the detergents even further, your carpets should have very little if any residue. If you're still unsure, consider this. Bonnet cleaning can only clean as much out as the bonnet can absorb on the surface. Compare that to high powered truck mounted steam cleaning equipment that extracts spots and soil deep within the carpet. ( I own all the equipment needed to do dry bonnet cleaning. I won't do it. ) 

Q: Will my carpet get dirtier faster after it is cleaned?

A: Not with the modern processes I use. I do not use heavy soaps or harsh chemicals commonly used in other methods of cleaning. Also, I use rinsing agents when some others do not.

Q: Will carpet protectors such as Dupont Teflon make my floor sticky?

A: With properly formulated treatments there should be no sticky residue, period.

Q: What are carpet protecters? 

A: Fluorochemical retardants are the best and most widely used. They resist water based and oil based stains. They work by changing the surface energy of the fiber. They resist higher surface energies, such as water, oil, and soil.  

Q: How long will it take for my carpet to dry?

A: From 1-24 hours. It really depends on many factors such as humidity, airflow in the home, and how heavily soiled the carpet was in the beginning. Fans and opened windows (weather permitting) facilitate the drying time greatly. I also offer for rental air circulators which can cut the drying times by more than half.

Q: Will all of the spots come out?

A: No, some spots such as ink, urine, bleach, & other harsh chemicals physically alter the color of the carpet and cannot be removed. In most cases I am able to make stains less noticeable to the human eye. However, many common stains CAN successfully be removed.

Q: How long can I wait to clean up a spot and still get it out?

A: Some spots MUST be cleaned immediately, others while they are still wet, and for some it may not matter. A good rule of thumb is attend to the spot just as soon as possible.

Q: Can we walk on the carpet after it's been cleaned?

A: Yes, but as little as possible. I recommend wearing clean-soled tennis shoes. Always test to make sure nothing is coming off your shoes (dirt, oil, shoe polish, etc.) . No shoes recommended if a stain protector has been applied.

Q: When can we put the furniture back?

A: WHEN THE FLOOR IS DRY. If you need to put it back sooner, I will be happy to provide plastic tabs or foam blocks to be placed underneath the furniture. This will prevent rust or dye stains. Aluminum foil may also be used. 

Q: How often should I have my carpets cleaned?

A: Most manufacturers recommend at least every 12 months, check your warranty. Traffic wear and color of carpet can be factors in how often you should use a professional cleaning service. Remember, Don't wait till it's too late. 

Q: What is pre-conditioning?

A: Pre-conditioning is one of the most overlooked and underestimated steps towards successful floor cleaning by homeowners and many cleaning companies. It is the first step is emulsifing spots and stains. Many carpet cleaning companies consider pre-conditioning as just spraying on a detergent. But spraying alone is not enough. Agitation is the second step in pre-conditioning and is just as important. I use a power scrub method, which is using a floor buffing machine with a soft bristle shampooing brush. This lifts the matted down nap and works the cleaning agents evenly throughout the fibers. (berber carpets may be excluded from the agitation step)